Amsterdam contrasted by Durgerdam

Sunday, 3rd August

Today is a relatively free and easy day, although we are due to move on to the small harbour of Durgerdam (14) to the east later in the day with an informal reception there at 17:00. This will entail keeping a watchful eye on the fast local marine traffic and larger vessels as we make our way to the "Sport" waiting pier (7) for the Oranje sluizen (8). The route today is just 6 Nm long but will take around two and a half hours with the lock and bridge waits.

My first priority (aside from getting my washing dry) is to re-provision the boat with fresh produce, so a trip across the river into Amsterdam city is necessary. Fortunately the water bus runs a frequent and free service from near the marina into Amsterdam Centraal Station and I take a mid-morning trip across, which also gives me the opportunity to check out the first part of my route to Durgerdam. I have not given myself time to do any sightseeing so content myself with taking in a bit of the city hubub that I have been free of for many days, do my essential shopping then take a return water bus to the marina.

Parking Amsterdam style!
One of the cycle parks at Centraal Station adjacent to the water bus landing.







On my return to Hyrst I find that my washing has dried and aired nicely in the sun, so take my smalls off the safety lines for the benefit of my neighbours view. Fortunately I am rafted alongside the Beaulieu River based pilot cutter "High Barbaree" and crew Tim and Liz, together with their Dutch guest, are far to polite to comment on my laundry line. Time for a relaxed lunch and some pleasant conversation with them about their particular voyage to join the tour.

The general view is that a departure from the marina at 14:30 will have us at Durgerdam in time for the reception given that it may be necessary for a large part of the fleet to anchor outside the harbour, so along with the majority I cast off at this time. As expected the journey does require keeping a watchful eye on the many fast feries and large barges that travel far faster than us, but is not unduly worrying.










Amsterdam marine traffic, plenty of variety.

 (photo. Barbara Runnels)









The passage through the lock and bridge passes smoothly for me and once again Hyrst is back in open water, albeit non-tidal. On approaching the entrance channel to Durgerdam I notice that several of the fleet are already at anchor and I prepare to do likewise, but as I turn into the channel I am instructed to go on into the harbour and follow the directions of the harbourmaster. The tour booklet does say that the harbour is small and that the arm to the right is "a cul-de-sac with very little space to manoeuvre", looks like another boat handling test! The HM, complete with megaphone, skilfully directs the steady stream of gaffers into position and in conjunction with a lot of good boat handling by the crews works a bit of a miracle and gets the majority of the fleet rafted up in the harbour.

View from the HM's pontoon as the rafting starts.
(photo. Barbara Runnels)

We can still see water, room for more on this raft!
Sven III, Hyrst of Eremue and Moon River in nearest raft.

(photo. Barbara Runnels)








The crew aboard "Susan J", a Heard 28 from Poole, showed their determination to continue with the cruise as they suffered worsening problems in getting forward propulsion under power, eventually loosing ahead drive completely.

Once again our Dutch hosts were on hand with a tow as required, this time berthing in Durgerdam.













The pontoons were not exactly walk-ashore, more like wind-your-way-ashore. Great after an evening of entertainment and/or an urgent need for the facilities! Hard to crank that handle cross-legged ;>)



 The floating-bridge link to shore.









The day was rounded off with the evening reception in the local yacht club with the food, drink and attractive location making for another enjoyable event. The knowledge that we were in a new phase of the tour added to the atmosphere.

Haarlem to Amsterdam, with some "Drama & Pride"

Saturday, 2nd August

Today is the last of the canal journeys with a trip of 11Nm from Haarlem to Amsterdam via the Noordzeekanaal (11 - 13). The route takes us North from Haarlem on the Noorder Buiten Spaarne to the Spaarndam lock (6) then the Spaarndam road bridge (7). Being a bridge for the busy A9 Autoroute openings are restricted to 09:00, 13:00 and 19:00 on Saturdays so exit timing from our overnight berth is important. The guide warns us to expect large commercial vessels on the Noordzeekanaal and to keep well in to the side of the canal, also that our engines must be running.

Due to the convoy system operating in Haarlem the bridge opening times are neither precise nor on-demand and rather than risk delays the gaffer fleet starts to depart from around 09:30. I take a 10:25 opening of the Catharijnebrug, with a further four bridges to negotiate prior to reaching the Spaarndam lock at 11:30.

Unusually, once the lock opens for entry I find myself at the front and moor off to port with Bonify taking the starboard wall. There is a €3 fee to pay at this lock but I am saved a clamber to the lock keepers control room when Kay collects my payment en-route to pay for Alice Pellow, much appreciated as it saves the usual single-hander rushing about and I make ready for the lock departure. The lock duly opens and I cast off, the bridge over the exit gates lifts and the skipper of a dutch boat alongside indicates for me to go ahead of him as the lights go green, so I set out keeping to port of Bonify. Then .... BEDLAM from astern, I look back to see the remaining crews shouting and gesticulating up at the bridge. I look up to find the bridge descending and just in contact with Hyrst's masthead fittings whilst Bonify has her topmast scraping along the underside of the bridge. Howard elects to keep going ahead in an attempt to get free and I choose to go astern as I am barely under the bridge. With bursts of full astern I manage to recover far enough to avoid the bridge making heavy contact with the mast, although the Windex and VHF antennae look decidedly out of position. Once out of danger I hold with the other boats while the bridge reverts to fully open then exit deciding on my next action. Moments of self doubt follow, but I have been assured the lights were green and Howard is not one to anticipate lights. One of our Dutch event orgainisers is also present in the lock and immediately confronts the lock operator to ascertain what occured and is informed that there was a "system problem" and any resultant damage/costs will be their responsibility - information that is communicated to me later in Amsterdam. After "pinging" all the rigging, doing a visual damage check with binoculars and checking that my VHF radio can still transmit and receive I decide to continue to Amsterdam where a further assessment of any damage can be made.

With the drama behind me (literally) I join the boats waiting for the A9 roadbridge to open while we do extended holding practice.

Just waiting......
betwixt the bridges at Spaarndam.













This lift and the final one into the Noordzeekanaal go without incident and I join the convoy heading for Amsterdam Marina. Once again the AIS comes into use for observing the activity of vessels in the many arms of the canal, ensuring that nothing large is due to exit into my path close to the canal side.

The position of the newly opened marina is not indicated clearly on any of our charts but a local skipper has given guidance and from his description the marina is readily identifiable on approach.

 Amsterdam Marina building with the gaffers taking some of the prime moorings.

The marina facilities are first class, although filling water tanks takes some hunting down of hoses and outlets. Marina fee €14.50 for Hyrst.






To add to the entertainment we discover that it is the weekend of  the Amsterdam Gay Pride event and we are treated to boatloads of music playing pink clad folk in full party mode cruising (?) around the waterways. All very good humoured even if a bit overt and loud! A large group from the gaffer crews also went by boat into the old city canals for an evening of entertainment, not much pink in evidence on them though. The only downer, the local supermarket had shut by the time I was moored up, it does not open on Sundays and I need to restock my larder.

Navigation simplified - mind the traffic as you leave!

Onward to Haarlem

Friday 1st August, Kaag to Haarlem

A further 12 Nm to cover today to reach our next tour destination of Haarlem, the capital city of North Holland. The Sassenheim bridges (2) dictate an early start with suitable opening times at 06:04, 06:34 and 06:48, missing those means best part of six hours delay. Other constraints include the Cruquiusbridge (20) which does not open between 15:00 and 18:00 and closes overnight from 21:00, also passage through Haarlem is done in convoy with bridge openings controlled by the Harbour Master. Then there is the small matter of having to stop at one of two locations in the city to pay a passage fee (€11.65 up to 10m boat length, €17.25 above that).


 The first part of the route along the Haarlemermeerpolder (Ringvaart) from Kaarg to the junction with the Zuider Buiten Spaarne (21).

After a restful night it is an early start with Hyrst and Alice off the marina moorings at 06:15 and underway for the 06:48 bridge lift. As we pass the junction with Gravenwater we are greeted by the sight of three other gaffers exiting from their overnight moorings in the Eijmerspoel.

As we round the corner at 06:40 and come into sight of the bridges we see they are already open and showing green lights, no time to debate is it a late or early opening, so throttles open and make a dash for it. All safely through.

A misty early morning view as we progress North along the Ringvaart with another fine day in the offing. The canal traffic proves to be light on this section and the views pleasant with no significant industrial areas. I was also treated to a brief but enjoyable conversion with a very pleasant Dutch lady cycling to work on the adjoining road, all part of the variety in canal cruising.

Not a sight we expected to see - a tug under tow by two gaffers! The tug Else, belonging to one of our East Coast gaffers suffered gearbox failure on this section and was taken under tow by two of the Dutch skippers. They continued the tow into Haarlem giving us a master class in boat handling given the boats involved and the bridge waits/negotiations. There was enough breeze at this point to make position holding difficult.

The second half of the route takes us along the Zuider Buiten Spaarne and Binnen Spaarne to the city waters of Haarlem. Six bridges to negotiate with five of them under the convoy system through Haarlem. The branch North immediately after the Cruquius bridge causes some confusion in the fleet as some boats carry on beyond the turning and others mill about in the area. It transpires that a visit has been arranged to the Museum Cruquius situated at the junction and several skippers have taken up the option, hence their diversion. Unfortunately not all skippers were party to the briefing about this! A bit of old fashion hollering soon has it sorted though and I skip the museum visit (not a steam buff) and carry on toward Haarlem in company with several other boats from the fleet.







I admit that I was not looking forward to this leg into Haarlem as I had a pre-conceived view of an industrialized and scruffy urban location. I could not have been more wrong, with canal side areas akin to "posh Thames" contrasting with houseboats of all grades and the sights through the city itself. The bridge negotiating was fairly fraught at times due to the number and variety of boats queing in the short distances between bridges and not all skippers apparently that experienced at it, there was a high percentage of transitting boats of various nationalities.


Typical riverside views of the Spaarne, Haarlem outskirts and city transit.

Our berth for the night, alongside just south of Catharijne bridge.

A good mooring spot with power available (from distribution boxes sunk into the footpath) and showers etc. included in the mooring fee, although the toilets/showers were a fair hike away as was the nearest food store. The duty harbour master arrived by bicycle and collected the transit fees so saving the need to search out one of the pay points.  A brief walk around the city center left me a bit underwhelmed as the architecture is lost in what appears to be one massive up-market eatery with restaurants and pavement cafes taking up every available space. So back to the boat for my evening meal and watch the world go by sharing my Dutch neighbours wine as we talk over an enjoyable day.

Gouda, then en-route for Haarlem

The next formal stop of the tour is Haarlem, which is a two day passage with an overnight mooring of the skippers choice. First, however, we have a layover day in Gouda.

Wednesday 30th July - a day in Gouda and evening entertainment.

The opportunity to have a day ashore is welcome especially as we are moored in the old city, however, some logistical challenges must be overcome first.  Challenge one is locating and accessing the limited toilet/shower facilities (turned into a social activity all of its own), challenge two is finding a local garage for diesel and humping the fuel cans back to the boat (most of us visitors have not yet become adept at finding the waterway fuel stations) and challenge three is getting access to the locked fresh water points (failed). Add in a fair amount of socialising as crews pass back and forth on the above challenges and the morning passes quickly, then the lure of lunch and sightseeing has me heading into the town centre.

Gouda town square, no cheese market today only a street market but the Cheese Museum, an excellent cafe and interesting side streets make for a pleasant visit, accompanied by the local church carillons which I enjoy hearing.





 Our hosts have organised some local entertainment for the evening, a "Biological Paelle" followed by a session with the local sea shanty choir. The dinner is hosted in a canal-side wooden building that is being restored as part of the local heritage work, with the food and local ale going down well. A boisterous session for what transpired to be the caterers first opening with the new enterprise. After a brief interval it was then on to the further entertainment with the choir.



The local cafe overlooking the moorings became the venue for an enjoyable session with the choir, accompanied by the gaffers and bolstered by good coffee, beer and apple tart in the late evening sun.

With wifi available at the cafe I was also able to make a promised Skype call to a special young lady on her birthday (the 2nd year I have been away sailing on the anniversary!)

 

 

Thursday 31st July, Gouda to Haarlem Day 1

To make the intended arrival time in Haarlem tomorrow it is necessary to be within easy striking distance tonight of the Sassenheim road/rail bridge (off NW corner of chart) in order to catch the 06:48 opening in the morning (the next opening is not until 12:08). The tour guide suggests anchoring for the night in Braassemermeer (32), however, I prefer to be closer to the bridge if progress allows and plot a route onward to the Keverland waters (42) a distance of 19 Nm.

The only timing constraint on today's route is the rail bridge (7) North of Gouda which opens at two hourly intervals, the first convenient opening being at 10:27 which the majority of skippers elect to use (including me). This entails leaving the mooring in time for the 08:30 lift of the first of our town bridges and time for us to crowd through the lock again. A few boats opt for a later opening in order to visit the cheese market before departing.

Waiting for the Gouda Spoorbruggen (rail bridges) at a shady "Wachtplaats" with plenty of time for a brew.  Note the algae around the boats. 

The weather remains fine and hot throughout the day and progress is good along the Gouwe, Heiman Wetering and Woud Wetering. I arrive at Braassemermeer at 14:00 and can see a few of the gaffers already at anchor around the lee of islands, Alice Pellow is in company and we agree to carry on to Keverland and moor/anchor there for the night. We have (relatively) open water and a reasonable breeze so it is engine off and a short sailing session, all too soon over as we enter the canal again to the north on the continuation of the Oude Wetering.

On arriving at Keverland via the Haarlemmermeer polder (35 - 40) we find that the area is proving popular and there are no obvious/desirable mooring spots available, so we choose to head for the nearby marina alongside the canal at Kaag. I phone ahead and the dock master confirms there is space and he will meet us on arrival. True to his word he is at the marina entrance and directs us to two adjacent berths convenient to the facilities and what turns out to be an excellent restaurant. Moored up and chilling out by 16:00. Good choice! Also good value, marina fee €11 inc. electricity and showers, evening meal and a few beers at the restaurant €20.

Dordrecht to Gouda

Tuesday 29th July, a comfortable distance of 19 Nm to cover but some restrictive bridge times.

The route takes us along De Noord (0 - 9) and the Nieuwe Maas (9 - 13), both busy commercial waterways, then onto the quieter Hollandse Ijssel (13 - 36), with the day's routine set by the timings of two bridges and to a lesser extent the tidal currents. The tour guide recommends a departure from Dordrecht at 13:00 in order to catch the 14:15 opening of the Alblasserdam Bridge (6) on De Noord (which only opens every two hours) and to be at the Stormloedkering/Algera bridge (17) on the Nieuwe Maas before 16:00 as it closes from then until 19:00 for the land based peak traffic.

A guided tour of Dordrecht has been arranged for the morning, alternatively there is free time for shopping and acting the tourist. Come 12:30 and the first of the boats start making their way out of the harbour. The weather is fine but with a fresh breeze (from the wrong direction) and we progress on schedule toward Gouda, with Hyrst of Eremue and other boats with short masts able to take advantage of the 12m bridge clearance at Alblasserdam and get ahead of the fleet.  Whilst travelling in this group of smaller boats I notice that Barbara is occasionally operating the manual bilge pump on Moon River but does not appear unduly concerned and going about her usual practice of photographing the route. Maybe a bit of additional maintenance needed on arrival.

Ahead of the fleet: Hyrst of Eremue and East Breeze from Moon River

The sting in the tail for today is the entry into Gouda which requires us to leave the tidal Hollandse Ijssel via the Juliana lock, then into the Gouwekanaal and Nieuwe Gouwe to access our mooring at Turfsingel in the historic area of the city (36 - 45). A further three bridges and a lock to negotiate after the Juliana lock. A passenger vessel (having priority) takes up most of the lock in the Nieuwe Gouwe and subsequently a fair few of the gaffer fleet, including East Breeze and Moon River,  get through while I hold for a later opening.

ANWB chart of the Gouda entrance as shown on route plan (waypoints 36 - 45) above.
Our moorings in the area H by the windmill.

On reaching the berthing area I make to go alongside Moon River but get directed alongside East Breeze as Moon River is having problems, emphasised by the number of people taking an interest. Once moored I join the group at Moon River to discover that the boat has had significant water ingress, to the extent that the water level is well up the seats in the saloon! Buckets are being used to clear the saloon water into the cockpit with another team bailing the cockpit water overboard. There is considerable concern as the water cannot be bailed fast enough to reduce the level. A further conflab ensues, then a moment of realization and some mirth as it is noted that the cockpit drains are open and well below water level due to the number of bods on the stern, so maintaining the cockpit water level! Everyone out of the cockpit and magically the cockpit empties. The saloon crew keep bailing and eventually the boat is dry enough to close the sea cocks and start investigating the source of the leak. After ensuring no further significant water ingress was happening and the boat was not going to sink overnight Barbara was accomodated on another boat, with further investigation postponed till the next morning. The problem was eventually diagnosed as a severly leaking exhaust system at the water injection elbow join caused by a combination of a) the hose not fully fitted during installation and b) the hose hardening during the previous days overheat episode and losing the elasticity holding it in place. Repairs were effected and the boat back in commission that morning thanks to the capability of our Dutch hosts and other gaffers mucking in.

Barbara was a great example of remaining cool under duresss, what with the pumping out and helming/photographing as normal whilst underway then dealing with the aftermath of the incident. She did admit to having a little bit more to drink that night than usual though.

Moon River with correct water level restored!

Gouda R&R time

Wemeldinge to Dordrecht, a stamina and skills test?

Monday 28th July, the tour handbook has today as "a good daytrip!" of 37Nm.

Plenty to consider, the initial waterways we are using are tidal (3m range and significant flows), we have two major locks to negotiate and some time critical bridges - a whole new gammut of passage planning considerations for me. Plus our overnight venue has a town centre along-side mooring, another novelty, oh! and sailing boats are not permitted to tack on certain waterways. The newly acquired ANWB Staande Mastroute (mast up) atlas has had some serious attention and routes have been entered on the Garmin chartplotter, Nexus 7 ANWB charts and Xperia Z2 Navionics chart. The zoom v. detail jumps on the chart plotter render it less suitable than the tablets for pilotage of this nature, but it is weatherproof!

The ANWB Staande Mastroute chart booklet

Staande Mastroute chart detail

Radio communications raises another set of considerations in terms of VHF channel use, CH16 is still the emergency channel, however, there is a "listening channel" VHF68 for waterway control, a calling  and bridge-to-bridge channel VHF10 and local channels for each bridge/lock. My combination of three VHF sets and two ears seems mismatched.

Route plan for the day

The route from Wemeldinge takes us via the tidal Oosterschelde, Brabants Vaarwater, Keeten and Mastgat for a distance of 12 mile to the Krammer Lock (7). Exiting the lock we are into the Volkerak as far as the Volkerak Sluis (18) then Hollandsdiep until the branch North onto the Dordtsche Kil and finally the Oude Maas for the entry into Dordrecht.

As we cast off at 08:30 the weather forecast comes true and a torrential rainstorm sets in, reducing visibility to less than 100m, maintaining visual contact with the fleet is impossible and it becomes a case of concentrating on the nav and keeping an eye on the boats immediately ahead and astern. The rain ceases after about an hour and the improved vis allows a check on the fleet which is now fairly dispersed along the route. No sign of fellow single-hander Barbara on Moon River but she was still preparing her boat when I cast off and there are a few other boats who miss the commercial vessel Krammer Lock opening that has been planned for the fleet.

Arriving at the Volkerak Sluis it is necessary to hold at the waiting moorings for entry and fellow Solent single-hander Marion rafts alongside with East Breeze (a Tamarisk 22). Come the green light for lock entry and the engine on East Breeze refuses to start, so we quickly set up an alongside starboard tow with Hyrst of  Eremue, agree some basic handling plans and set off at the tail end of the charge for the lock. The lock looks crammed as we approach and at the critical moment the lights go to red against us! Fortunately (knowing Sodd) we had anticipated this and kept well to port on the approach as I could only manage a tight turn to starboard under this configuration, and with both helms over and using max prop wash we clear the lock entry and set off for the waiting mooring again - only to look back and see a lock-keeper frantically waving us in against the red! Another starboard about u-turn and a run for the lock, but where to go in the lock, it is packed! Tied two-abreast and with a fair amount of momentum we have a tense few moments getting the attention of crew on the rearmost boats in the lock but manage and achieve an impact free "merging" with the other boats. It is obvious that Hyrst will not be able to tow East Breeze any distance and whilst in the lock we manage  to contact the Hamble based Cornish Trader "Beagle", a sturdy 30ft ketch, who agrees to take on the tow once we are clear of the lock. While waiting for the lock opening Marion and I manage to encourage the reluctant engine into life, but agree that I will maintain the tow until clear of the lock and into more open water, Beagle agrees to standby as a back-up. East Breeze manages to remain under own engine power for the rest of the day (no switching off at locks/bridges) with Beagle and Hyrst staying nearby just in case.

It can be seen that confidence and capability is starting to build amongst us first-timers at this inland waterways lark, although the entrance to Dordrecht causes a fair amount of tension as a large gaffer fleet arrives at the tight bridge-restricted entrance to the inner harbour. The local water plod (aka Rotterdam Harbour Police) are soon on scene with two patrol boats to manage the situation as we are at the junction of two busy and controlled commercial waterways. After much position holding/jostling the bridge opens and we experience the challenge of getting the fleet in and berthed in a space that few of us thought large enough. I moored Hyrst bows in between two boats in box moorings who were bows out, well fendered there was hardly a need for warps!

Moon River had fallen behind but, accompanied by East Coast gaffer "Bonify" rejoined the fleet. It appears that Moonriver suffered an engine overheat soon after leaving Wemeldinge and during the rain storm failed to raise any of the fleet on VHF (I suspect the combination of VHF channel options and battened down boats in the rain exacerbated the comms problem.)  Barbara then resorted to sending text messages to skippers in the fleet, which was responded to by Howard, the skipper of Bonify, who then took Moon River in tow whilst he set about clearing a water blockage on Moon River's engine.

The entrance to Dordrecht, with some of the fleet on approach.

 The day's sail had been challenging but interesting, with a first insight into the commercial aspects of  the waterways, the significant industry and infrastructure associated with it, and then the total contrast of the old city of Dordrecht.


The gaffer fleet in the harbour at Dordrecht. (photo. Barbara Runnels)

The "Wemeldinge Weekend" - racing, games and social events!

CATCH-UP TIME with the blog!

Saturday/Sunday 26th -27th July.

The weekend has an active program of events enabling us to meet fellow attendees, cast an eye over the gathered array of boats and catch up with the necessary jobs. Further boats and crew are also due to arrive over the weekend. The weather is forecast to remain warm and dry to suit the activities.
 
 Hyrst of Eremue manouvering to a berth in the inner basin.


It got progressivly tighter on space and provided skippers on the larger boats with a challenge!
Didn't hear any bow thrusters in use either.


 

Saturday 26th July, racing in the morning with prize giving in the evening and a mussel supper.

Being single-handed I opted out of the morning race and set about some more sorting and stowage of items on the boat plus some minor maintenance. The afternoon was spent exploring locally on foot  and a shopping trip to town in the afternoon, which turned out to be a bit of a hike back laden with goods (wish I had got that folding bike). That just left time to take advantage of the laundry facilities prior to the evening social activities. Unfortunately I am not one for shell fish so it was a case of  a meal onboard then up to the marquee to join the activities. The Solent boats acquited themselves well in the race with two winning prizes.

View towards the town beyond the second marina basin. Good chandlery and restaurant at the marina.


I was given the figure of 55 boats present on the rally by Saturday afternoon.




Sunday 27th July, quayside and on-the-water events and an evening BBQ

With the fine weather holding the water-based activities drew plenty of attention, with the dinghy jousting providing great entertainment and the youngsters almost defeating the adults in the final. Once again the evening activities went off well, although minds had started focusing on the demanding day ahead and the less than favourable weather forecast. For many of us it would be the first time of dealing with the serious commercial traffic of the inland waterways.