Hoorn to Enkhuizen and the Anniversary Dinner

Wednesday, 6th August

The destination harbour today is Enkhuizen, a sailing distance of 12 Nm on the Markermeer and Hoornse Gat then via the Krabbersgat lock (10) into the Ijsselmeer. Rather than a race todays passage will take the form of a Parade of Sail on departing Hoorn then a cruise in convoy to provide a fleet arrival at Enkhuizen. We will be mooring in the Old Harbour which is accessed via the "Drommedaris" lift bridge and the tour guide does state "and try to fit in ... if needed with a shoehorn" so some more tight manoeuvring anticipated.























The cast-off time from the moorings at Hoorn is 10:30 with the Parade of Sail at 11:00 on exiting the harbour. The weather takes a hand, however, and with a fresh SSE F5 head wind and a choppy sea at the harbour exit it is not realistic to form up in close formation for a parade. The skippers opt for some sea room to set mainsails only (most reefed) for a motor-sail into the wind and sea to the first course mark. Nevertheless, the sight of the fleet setting sail was still impressive from where I was so should have been worthwhile for those ashore.

Once we turn around the first mark it becomes possible to stop the engine and with jib and staysail set and two reefs in the main Hyrst is perfectly set for the conditions and over the next few miles I have the best sail I have experienced for a long time. Dropping the sails on approach to the lock is a bit fraught in what are now uncomfortable conditions, then I find there is a nice calm pool of water just at the lock entrance which would have been much safer and more comfortable! Passage through the lock goes OK despite the wind causing some difficulties, then it is a short distance to the harbour entrance. The bridge lifts are only allowing a small number of boats through each time and the HM launch is on station instructing boats to keep clear until called forward, which is causing problems as further boats arrive and try to hold position in the strong tail wind conditions. As my turn to go through the bridge arrives I move closer and find that we have a cheerful lady HM who informs me that she has a man down, a curious bit of  information I think. Then I notice that a hard-hat diver is working at the sea wall by the bridge entrance, no dive flag, lights, signals, safety boat or other measures in place, just guys on the dock handling the hose and lines! No wonder the HM is a bit hassled with our fleet arriving and restricted access. The narrow bridge passage becomes a boat handling challenge with boats queuing beyond trying to berth, however, I get clear and raft up outside of the Cat Boat at 14:40.

Once berthed I took a walk around the old town and the several harbours, returning via the bridge we had entered through. The couple of short videos below give an insight into the access typical of inner harbours. The fresh breeze is audible, my mutterings can be ignored.

The access channel to the bridge.

The bridge lift and view of the harbour moorings.



In the evening there is the formal 10th Anniversary Dinner and Party hosted at the Zeevaartschool, a unique establishment that trains professional seagoing officers for the sail trade. The rain and directions to the school test us a bit come the time to make our way there, but it is well worth the effort. After some informal introductory speeches and presentations between the national OGA groups the dinner and party activities get underway. An excellent spread of seafood is the focal point, with alternatives for vegetarians and a BBQ for non-shellfish types like me. Being a bit off-sorts I had a light meal and left early to get my head down as some rest seemed the best cure. From reports the evening was a great success, helped along with a good band and a great atmosphere.

Edam to Hoorn

Tuesday, 5th August

Today is another race day with a three-leg course on the Markermeer and quaintly named Hoornse Hop, a course distance of 12 Nm which takes us from Edam to Hoorn, the town that gives the name to Cape Horn (Kaap Hoorn) due to the exploits of the Dutch East India Company. The organisers have requested that we try and bunch up for the entry into Hoorn as the local press have taken an interest in our cruise and would like to get film/photos of the fleet entering the harbour.

The course is set from harbour entrance to harbour entrance via the yellow "Sport" buoys.

The enjoyment of the previous evening is in evidence as A) I don't have to queue for the showers in the morning and B) the 09:00 briefing has a somewhat laid back (laid out?) start as several skippers (and organisers) have difficulty leaving their bunks in time. After a lot of banter a start time of 11:00 is agreed allowing time for crews to recover and socialize. Then follows a major traffic jam in the small harbour and restricted channel as the fleet gets underway, naturally the boats on the outside of the rafts are last to be ready! The local weather forecast is predicting winds of F1-3 variable to start with becoming F3-4 SE, and a slow first half of the race ensues but picks up pace later as the wind rises. Hyrst goes well in light winds and I actually make some progress through the fleet, but the size discrepancy of the boats soon has us spread out once the wind increases and we return to the tail end. The press get their photo opportunity as the compact harbour at Hoorn causes the fleet to queue for berthing although the smaller boats can work their way past and into the east basin. I moor Hyrst on an "alongside" pontoon at 16:45, with no rafting!

Outbound from Edam and Hyrst is holding off some of the opposition.

The gaffer fleet underway for Hoorn as seen from my usual position bringing up the rear.

The smaller gaffers in the tranquil inner reaches of Hoorn harbour.









The Cat Boat in the foreground acquitted itself well and also hosted a crew of four. Crossing it over the foredeck was a challenge in a raft!


Hoorn proved to be an attractive and interesting town and rewards some exploring on foot.

Met the intrepid cycle explorers Dave and Kay outside a harbour bar (surprise) so joined them for some refreshment en-route.





For those who arrived early enough a vist to the local classic working boat exhibition was available including a sail on a "botter", unfortunately I missed that. The evening saw another enjoyable social event held in the local yachtclub, with our own accompanying chef producing yet another great meal and a band laid on to entertain us.

Durgerdam to Edam, with rations and a RTIR

Monday, August 4th

A significant change to the tour today as we are into open water sailing on the Ijmeer and Markermeer, plus the organisers have thrown in a "Round The Island Race" which brings the passage distance up to 22 Nm.

The day begins with a briefing at 09:00 which provides us with our first view of the course. Then we are issued with a pack of local produce "Survival Rations" consisting of a litre "sausage" of frozen fish soup, a large loaf of bread and a generous portion of cheese. We should obviously expect a long and testing day if we need survival food! In fact the survival rations prove to be excellent fare and will probably last me a few days (maybe not the soup). The race start is set for 11:00, giving us time to extricate all the boats from the tightly packed harbour.

The outer channel marks at Durgerdam form the race start (1) with the course taking us to the island of Pampus where we have to do a complete circumnavigation (3 to 7) before proceding south to the entrance of Muiden (9), then north to Uitdam, a leg east (11) with a return to the peninsula off Marken (12) then to the finish off Edam (13). For reference, Pampus is a formerly fortified island not much larger than a Solent fort but lower profile and with a rocky shoreline. It appears popular as an anchorage for local boats, whose crews seem a bit perplexed when they find a fleet of gaffers careering around them.

It is a fine day but with a fresh F4-5 SW wind suiting the larger boats well and they rapidly leave Hyrst and a couple of more tidlers trailing behind on the leg out to Pampus. We have free choice on which direction to round the island, so I elect to free off the wind a bit more and go clockwise around, catching most of the faster boats out to the north of the island with me on starboard tack and them on port as they have all taken an anticlockwise circuit. Being a tail-end-Charlie I have nothing to lose  with my tactic but my advantage is lost due to the longer distance then getting caught out on port tack on the second half of the circuit by the mid fleet boats. The beat down to Muiden is a tough one and not managageable on one tack, however, I do go around the mark unlike the two boats behind me who are magically in front of me when I turn north - I seem to be taking the racing bit too seriously! During the "race" I receive a text message from my son, who is following my progress on AIS, enquiring about my antics going around in circles and random directions, probably thinking I am totally lost without canal banks to follow. The sea is choppy enough to take the edge off Hyrst's speed but nevertheless it makes for enjoyable sailing, and I am off the point at Marken (12) at 14:45. I make a mess of the navigation on the final leg to Edam and loose more time by initially heading for the Volendam entrance marks rather than Edam. Poor practice on my part by not checking the course but just entering waypoints on the chartplotter, then discovering that the co-ordinates provided for the final mark and the finish line were incorrect. I eventually reach the Edam entrance channel marks at 16:21. I can confirm that the harbour entrance is indeed inconspicuous, it took me two circuits around the approach to find it! The harbour is compact and well packed with the fleet in, I end up rafted six out at the end of the fairway but in time for the evening activities.

The lighthouse off Marken.
The bulk of the gaffer fleet is just visible (dots) on the horizon.









The local yacht club is our venue for the evening providing a bar and excellent facilities, with the external grounds providing views over the Markermeer. The accompanying chef provides an excellent outdoor grill then we have the prizegiving to round off the formal activities. Hyrst of Eremue is a prize winner (not based on peformance) and we come away with a filter coffee sytem and fresh coffee, not a bad evening at all.

Open water at last!
Hyrst of Eremue on the Markermeer.













Footnote: the nasty chop set up with the F4/5 wind was a little surprising, but considering the depth of water is only 2 to 3 metres I should have anticipated it. Apparently the local rescue service can be quite busy in strong wind conditions.

Amsterdam contrasted by Durgerdam

Sunday, 3rd August

Today is a relatively free and easy day, although we are due to move on to the small harbour of Durgerdam (14) to the east later in the day with an informal reception there at 17:00. This will entail keeping a watchful eye on the fast local marine traffic and larger vessels as we make our way to the "Sport" waiting pier (7) for the Oranje sluizen (8). The route today is just 6 Nm long but will take around two and a half hours with the lock and bridge waits.

My first priority (aside from getting my washing dry) is to re-provision the boat with fresh produce, so a trip across the river into Amsterdam city is necessary. Fortunately the water bus runs a frequent and free service from near the marina into Amsterdam Centraal Station and I take a mid-morning trip across, which also gives me the opportunity to check out the first part of my route to Durgerdam. I have not given myself time to do any sightseeing so content myself with taking in a bit of the city hubub that I have been free of for many days, do my essential shopping then take a return water bus to the marina.

Parking Amsterdam style!
One of the cycle parks at Centraal Station adjacent to the water bus landing.







On my return to Hyrst I find that my washing has dried and aired nicely in the sun, so take my smalls off the safety lines for the benefit of my neighbours view. Fortunately I am rafted alongside the Beaulieu River based pilot cutter "High Barbaree" and crew Tim and Liz, together with their Dutch guest, are far to polite to comment on my laundry line. Time for a relaxed lunch and some pleasant conversation with them about their particular voyage to join the tour.

The general view is that a departure from the marina at 14:30 will have us at Durgerdam in time for the reception given that it may be necessary for a large part of the fleet to anchor outside the harbour, so along with the majority I cast off at this time. As expected the journey does require keeping a watchful eye on the many fast feries and large barges that travel far faster than us, but is not unduly worrying.










Amsterdam marine traffic, plenty of variety.

 (photo. Barbara Runnels)









The passage through the lock and bridge passes smoothly for me and once again Hyrst is back in open water, albeit non-tidal. On approaching the entrance channel to Durgerdam I notice that several of the fleet are already at anchor and I prepare to do likewise, but as I turn into the channel I am instructed to go on into the harbour and follow the directions of the harbourmaster. The tour booklet does say that the harbour is small and that the arm to the right is "a cul-de-sac with very little space to manoeuvre", looks like another boat handling test! The HM, complete with megaphone, skilfully directs the steady stream of gaffers into position and in conjunction with a lot of good boat handling by the crews works a bit of a miracle and gets the majority of the fleet rafted up in the harbour.

View from the HM's pontoon as the rafting starts.
(photo. Barbara Runnels)

We can still see water, room for more on this raft!
Sven III, Hyrst of Eremue and Moon River in nearest raft.

(photo. Barbara Runnels)








The crew aboard "Susan J", a Heard 28 from Poole, showed their determination to continue with the cruise as they suffered worsening problems in getting forward propulsion under power, eventually loosing ahead drive completely.

Once again our Dutch hosts were on hand with a tow as required, this time berthing in Durgerdam.













The pontoons were not exactly walk-ashore, more like wind-your-way-ashore. Great after an evening of entertainment and/or an urgent need for the facilities! Hard to crank that handle cross-legged ;>)



 The floating-bridge link to shore.









The day was rounded off with the evening reception in the local yacht club with the food, drink and attractive location making for another enjoyable event. The knowledge that we were in a new phase of the tour added to the atmosphere.

Haarlem to Amsterdam, with some "Drama & Pride"

Saturday, 2nd August

Today is the last of the canal journeys with a trip of 11Nm from Haarlem to Amsterdam via the Noordzeekanaal (11 - 13). The route takes us North from Haarlem on the Noorder Buiten Spaarne to the Spaarndam lock (6) then the Spaarndam road bridge (7). Being a bridge for the busy A9 Autoroute openings are restricted to 09:00, 13:00 and 19:00 on Saturdays so exit timing from our overnight berth is important. The guide warns us to expect large commercial vessels on the Noordzeekanaal and to keep well in to the side of the canal, also that our engines must be running.

Due to the convoy system operating in Haarlem the bridge opening times are neither precise nor on-demand and rather than risk delays the gaffer fleet starts to depart from around 09:30. I take a 10:25 opening of the Catharijnebrug, with a further four bridges to negotiate prior to reaching the Spaarndam lock at 11:30.

Unusually, once the lock opens for entry I find myself at the front and moor off to port with Bonify taking the starboard wall. There is a €3 fee to pay at this lock but I am saved a clamber to the lock keepers control room when Kay collects my payment en-route to pay for Alice Pellow, much appreciated as it saves the usual single-hander rushing about and I make ready for the lock departure. The lock duly opens and I cast off, the bridge over the exit gates lifts and the skipper of a dutch boat alongside indicates for me to go ahead of him as the lights go green, so I set out keeping to port of Bonify. Then .... BEDLAM from astern, I look back to see the remaining crews shouting and gesticulating up at the bridge. I look up to find the bridge descending and just in contact with Hyrst's masthead fittings whilst Bonify has her topmast scraping along the underside of the bridge. Howard elects to keep going ahead in an attempt to get free and I choose to go astern as I am barely under the bridge. With bursts of full astern I manage to recover far enough to avoid the bridge making heavy contact with the mast, although the Windex and VHF antennae look decidedly out of position. Once out of danger I hold with the other boats while the bridge reverts to fully open then exit deciding on my next action. Moments of self doubt follow, but I have been assured the lights were green and Howard is not one to anticipate lights. One of our Dutch event orgainisers is also present in the lock and immediately confronts the lock operator to ascertain what occured and is informed that there was a "system problem" and any resultant damage/costs will be their responsibility - information that is communicated to me later in Amsterdam. After "pinging" all the rigging, doing a visual damage check with binoculars and checking that my VHF radio can still transmit and receive I decide to continue to Amsterdam where a further assessment of any damage can be made.

With the drama behind me (literally) I join the boats waiting for the A9 roadbridge to open while we do extended holding practice.

Just waiting......
betwixt the bridges at Spaarndam.













This lift and the final one into the Noordzeekanaal go without incident and I join the convoy heading for Amsterdam Marina. Once again the AIS comes into use for observing the activity of vessels in the many arms of the canal, ensuring that nothing large is due to exit into my path close to the canal side.

The position of the newly opened marina is not indicated clearly on any of our charts but a local skipper has given guidance and from his description the marina is readily identifiable on approach.

 Amsterdam Marina building with the gaffers taking some of the prime moorings.

The marina facilities are first class, although filling water tanks takes some hunting down of hoses and outlets. Marina fee €14.50 for Hyrst.






To add to the entertainment we discover that it is the weekend of  the Amsterdam Gay Pride event and we are treated to boatloads of music playing pink clad folk in full party mode cruising (?) around the waterways. All very good humoured even if a bit overt and loud! A large group from the gaffer crews also went by boat into the old city canals for an evening of entertainment, not much pink in evidence on them though. The only downer, the local supermarket had shut by the time I was moored up, it does not open on Sundays and I need to restock my larder.

Navigation simplified - mind the traffic as you leave!

Onward to Haarlem

Friday 1st August, Kaag to Haarlem

A further 12 Nm to cover today to reach our next tour destination of Haarlem, the capital city of North Holland. The Sassenheim bridges (2) dictate an early start with suitable opening times at 06:04, 06:34 and 06:48, missing those means best part of six hours delay. Other constraints include the Cruquiusbridge (20) which does not open between 15:00 and 18:00 and closes overnight from 21:00, also passage through Haarlem is done in convoy with bridge openings controlled by the Harbour Master. Then there is the small matter of having to stop at one of two locations in the city to pay a passage fee (€11.65 up to 10m boat length, €17.25 above that).


 The first part of the route along the Haarlemermeerpolder (Ringvaart) from Kaarg to the junction with the Zuider Buiten Spaarne (21).

After a restful night it is an early start with Hyrst and Alice off the marina moorings at 06:15 and underway for the 06:48 bridge lift. As we pass the junction with Gravenwater we are greeted by the sight of three other gaffers exiting from their overnight moorings in the Eijmerspoel.

As we round the corner at 06:40 and come into sight of the bridges we see they are already open and showing green lights, no time to debate is it a late or early opening, so throttles open and make a dash for it. All safely through.

A misty early morning view as we progress North along the Ringvaart with another fine day in the offing. The canal traffic proves to be light on this section and the views pleasant with no significant industrial areas. I was also treated to a brief but enjoyable conversion with a very pleasant Dutch lady cycling to work on the adjoining road, all part of the variety in canal cruising.

Not a sight we expected to see - a tug under tow by two gaffers! The tug Else, belonging to one of our East Coast gaffers suffered gearbox failure on this section and was taken under tow by two of the Dutch skippers. They continued the tow into Haarlem giving us a master class in boat handling given the boats involved and the bridge waits/negotiations. There was enough breeze at this point to make position holding difficult.

The second half of the route takes us along the Zuider Buiten Spaarne and Binnen Spaarne to the city waters of Haarlem. Six bridges to negotiate with five of them under the convoy system through Haarlem. The branch North immediately after the Cruquius bridge causes some confusion in the fleet as some boats carry on beyond the turning and others mill about in the area. It transpires that a visit has been arranged to the Museum Cruquius situated at the junction and several skippers have taken up the option, hence their diversion. Unfortunately not all skippers were party to the briefing about this! A bit of old fashion hollering soon has it sorted though and I skip the museum visit (not a steam buff) and carry on toward Haarlem in company with several other boats from the fleet.







I admit that I was not looking forward to this leg into Haarlem as I had a pre-conceived view of an industrialized and scruffy urban location. I could not have been more wrong, with canal side areas akin to "posh Thames" contrasting with houseboats of all grades and the sights through the city itself. The bridge negotiating was fairly fraught at times due to the number and variety of boats queing in the short distances between bridges and not all skippers apparently that experienced at it, there was a high percentage of transitting boats of various nationalities.


Typical riverside views of the Spaarne, Haarlem outskirts and city transit.

Our berth for the night, alongside just south of Catharijne bridge.

A good mooring spot with power available (from distribution boxes sunk into the footpath) and showers etc. included in the mooring fee, although the toilets/showers were a fair hike away as was the nearest food store. The duty harbour master arrived by bicycle and collected the transit fees so saving the need to search out one of the pay points.  A brief walk around the city center left me a bit underwhelmed as the architecture is lost in what appears to be one massive up-market eatery with restaurants and pavement cafes taking up every available space. So back to the boat for my evening meal and watch the world go by sharing my Dutch neighbours wine as we talk over an enjoyable day.

Gouda, then en-route for Haarlem

The next formal stop of the tour is Haarlem, which is a two day passage with an overnight mooring of the skippers choice. First, however, we have a layover day in Gouda.

Wednesday 30th July - a day in Gouda and evening entertainment.

The opportunity to have a day ashore is welcome especially as we are moored in the old city, however, some logistical challenges must be overcome first.  Challenge one is locating and accessing the limited toilet/shower facilities (turned into a social activity all of its own), challenge two is finding a local garage for diesel and humping the fuel cans back to the boat (most of us visitors have not yet become adept at finding the waterway fuel stations) and challenge three is getting access to the locked fresh water points (failed). Add in a fair amount of socialising as crews pass back and forth on the above challenges and the morning passes quickly, then the lure of lunch and sightseeing has me heading into the town centre.

Gouda town square, no cheese market today only a street market but the Cheese Museum, an excellent cafe and interesting side streets make for a pleasant visit, accompanied by the local church carillons which I enjoy hearing.





 Our hosts have organised some local entertainment for the evening, a "Biological Paelle" followed by a session with the local sea shanty choir. The dinner is hosted in a canal-side wooden building that is being restored as part of the local heritage work, with the food and local ale going down well. A boisterous session for what transpired to be the caterers first opening with the new enterprise. After a brief interval it was then on to the further entertainment with the choir.



The local cafe overlooking the moorings became the venue for an enjoyable session with the choir, accompanied by the gaffers and bolstered by good coffee, beer and apple tart in the late evening sun.

With wifi available at the cafe I was also able to make a promised Skype call to a special young lady on her birthday (the 2nd year I have been away sailing on the anniversary!)

 

 

Thursday 31st July, Gouda to Haarlem Day 1

To make the intended arrival time in Haarlem tomorrow it is necessary to be within easy striking distance tonight of the Sassenheim road/rail bridge (off NW corner of chart) in order to catch the 06:48 opening in the morning (the next opening is not until 12:08). The tour guide suggests anchoring for the night in Braassemermeer (32), however, I prefer to be closer to the bridge if progress allows and plot a route onward to the Keverland waters (42) a distance of 19 Nm.

The only timing constraint on today's route is the rail bridge (7) North of Gouda which opens at two hourly intervals, the first convenient opening being at 10:27 which the majority of skippers elect to use (including me). This entails leaving the mooring in time for the 08:30 lift of the first of our town bridges and time for us to crowd through the lock again. A few boats opt for a later opening in order to visit the cheese market before departing.

Waiting for the Gouda Spoorbruggen (rail bridges) at a shady "Wachtplaats" with plenty of time for a brew.  Note the algae around the boats. 

The weather remains fine and hot throughout the day and progress is good along the Gouwe, Heiman Wetering and Woud Wetering. I arrive at Braassemermeer at 14:00 and can see a few of the gaffers already at anchor around the lee of islands, Alice Pellow is in company and we agree to carry on to Keverland and moor/anchor there for the night. We have (relatively) open water and a reasonable breeze so it is engine off and a short sailing session, all too soon over as we enter the canal again to the north on the continuation of the Oude Wetering.

On arriving at Keverland via the Haarlemmermeer polder (35 - 40) we find that the area is proving popular and there are no obvious/desirable mooring spots available, so we choose to head for the nearby marina alongside the canal at Kaag. I phone ahead and the dock master confirms there is space and he will meet us on arrival. True to his word he is at the marina entrance and directs us to two adjacent berths convenient to the facilities and what turns out to be an excellent restaurant. Moored up and chilling out by 16:00. Good choice! Also good value, marina fee €11 inc. electricity and showers, evening meal and a few beers at the restaurant €20.